Japanese Onsen: A Traveler’s Guide
Oita Prefecture, blessed with Japan’s highest concentration of natural hot springs or onsen, is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the country’s famed bathing culture. From traditional bathhouses to unique bathing experiences, discover the countless ways to enjoy onsen, a cornerstone of local life.
* Please note that the text shown on this page includes machine translations.
Contents
Onsen Culture
Bathing in onsen is an important part of Japanese people’s lives, with a history dating back hundreds—if not thousands—of years. Locals visit onsen for relaxation, community, and wellbeing. Japan is blessed with an abundance of onsen waters thanks to the extensive geothermal activity beneath its islands. The water that onsen-goers soak in today often began as rainfall a century ago, slowly filtering through underground rock layers where it’s heated by the Earth and enriched with minerals. Oita Prefecture enjoys more hot spring sources and greater water flow than anywhere else in Japan, making it a must-visit onsen destination.
Endless Enjoyment
There are countless ways to experience Oita’s hot spring heritage. Foot and hand baths offer a quick taste of onsen culture without needing to get out of your clothes—perfect between sightseeing spots. Many onsen facilities have rotenburo or open-air baths offering views of nature or simply the vast sky while you soak. Private baths are also available, ideal for families or couples seeking their own space. Besides bathing, onsen sometimes have insen or drinking springs where you can sample the mineral-rich waters. Many onsen welcome both overnight guests and day visitors, letting you drop by for a quick dip or stay the night.
Alternative Bathing Experiences
While hot water baths are the most common type of onsen experience, there are also several distinct and memorable alternatives.
- Mud Baths
- Mud baths (doroyu) offer a unique experience that is said to leave the skin feeling softer and more refreshed and to help with circulation and joint discomfort. A particularly well-known mud bathing facility can be found at Hoyoland Onsen in Beppu City. Here, you can feel an almost weightless floating sensation in a mixture of mineral-rich mud and onsen water that has a higher density than regular water. Because of the mud’s high mineral content and intense heat retention, you should aim to limit your bathing time to 10–15 minutes, and the bath is not suitable for young children.
- Sand Baths
- Sand bathing (sunayu) involves enveloping most of your body in warm sand. The sand’s weight and warmth create a deeply relaxing sensation that promotes sweating and circulation. In Beppu, there are two notable sunayu facilities. At Takegawara Onsen, the sand is heated by filling the sand pit with hot spring water and then draining it, allowing the sand to retain the heat. Staff members then carefully cover you with this naturally warmed sand. At Hyotan Onsen, the sand is heated naturally by steam, with the choice of warm or hot sand baths. Here, you have to do the burying yourself, or get help from a friend or family member.
- Steam Baths
- Steam baths (mushiyu) use natural geothermal steam, creating an experience that is similar to being in a sauna but at lower temperatures (50–60°C compared to a sauna’s 90–100°C) and with much higher humidity (80–90% versus 10% or below). One special steam bath facility is Kannawa Mushiyu in Beppu City. Here, you lie on your back in a dim stone chamber lined with sekisho (sometimes known as Japanese sweet flag), a medicinal herb that fills the room with an intense, citrusy aroma, as therapeutic steam envelops you in an 8–10-minute session. The combination of heat, humidity, and aromatic herbs creates a relaxing and rejuvenating experience that is also said to have detoxifying effects.
- See More
Pre-Onsen Prep
- Step 1
- Most onsen facilities only accept cash, with down-to-earth local bathhouses typically costing around 100–300 yen per visit, so make sure you have some coins handy. Try to travel light and leave valuables at your accommodation—while theft is rare in Japan, it’s always better to be safe than sorry.
- Step 2
- Pack a change of clothes if you want. Try to bring a large and small towel with you (from your accommodation, for example), or borrow/rent them at the facility for free or for a small fee. The large towel should only be used in the changing area and is for fully drying off at the end. The small towel is for maintaining modesty as you walk between areas and for drying off a bit when re-entering the changing area. The small towel should not go into the bath—you can leave it to the side as you bathe or rest it on your head like a local.
- Step 3
- When you arrive, switch from your outdoor shoes to the provided indoor slippers before entering the changing room and potentially before entering the facility itself. In general, you’ll need to switch footwear whenever transitioning from outdoor to indoor flooring and vice versa. The distinction between indoor and outdoor footwear is taken seriously in Japan, and while locals tend to be very understanding of foreign visitors not fully understanding how this works, it’s still best to try to get things right. There are some telltale signs to look for like a raised floor, shoe lockers, or laid out slippers. If in doubt, observe others or ask a staff member.
- Step 4
- In the changing room, you’ll need to get fully undressed and you’ll find baskets or lockers for your clothes. Most places also offer coin-operated lockers for your valuables.
- Step 5
- Wash yourself well (more on that below).
Onsen Etiquette
1. Basic Rules
- Always wash first
- Before getting into the bath, give yourself a good wash at the shower. You can also fill the small tub and pour hot water on yourself. This keeps the bath water clean for everyone and lets your body adjust to the temperature. Simple but important!
- Don’t swim or splash
- An onsen isn’t a swimming pool. It’s a place where people come to relax. Avoid splashing around and try to keep your voice down. Your fellow bathers will appreciate it.
- Keep hair and towels out of the water
- Only your body should go into the bath water. If you have long hair, you should tie it up. As for the little towel, rest it on your head or leave it by the edge of the bath.
- Cameras away
- No photos in any area where people might be undressed. That means both the bathing area and changing rooms. Your phone or camera should stay safely in a locker or outside the onsen facility altogether.
- Share the washing space
- The washing stations can get pretty cozy, so be mindful of your neighbors. Try not to splash them with water or soap! You also shouldn’t spread your things across multiple stations or try to save spots for later.
2. When in Beppu…
- Greet your fellow bathers
- In Beppu, it’s common to exchange greetings when entering and leaving the bath area. A friendly “konnichiwa!” (hello) when you enter and “osaki desu” (goodbye) when you exit shows you’re embracing the local culture.
- Don’t sit on the bath’s edge
- In the rest of Japan, it’s very common to see people sitting on the bath’s edge, but not in Beppu. For locals, the edge is for resting your head, not your backside!
- Ask before adding cold water
- Beppu’s hot springs are famous for their high temperatures, typically around 43°C (compared to around 40–42°C elsewhere in Japan). While there is a tap for adding cold water and cooling things down, remember that locals cherish the natural temperature of their onsen. Adding cold water also thins out the onsen water and lowers the mineral balance. If you find it too hot, it’s polite to ask others in the bath before adjusting the temperature.
Making the Most of Onsen
Visiting an onsen is, above all, about relaxation. Ease yourself into the warm water, as the heat and gentle pressure work together to release any tension in your body and enhance your overall wellness. Each onsen offers something different, both in terms of the natural mix of minerals in the water and the types of baths. Besides indoor baths and outdoor rotenburo, you’ll also often find a sauna or maybe a steam bath—just make sure to dry yourself off before using them.
Clothed Onsen Options
Not everyone is comfortable with the Japanese custom of nude communal bathing, and that’s completely understandable. For visitors who’d like to experience Oita’s famous hot springs while staying clothed, several onsen offer alternatives that let you wear some form of clothing, such as a swimsuit or a traditional yukata (light cotton robe).
- Sunayu at Takegawara Onsen
- Takegawara Onsen offers sand bathing (sunayu) as a clothed option in a building that dates back to 1938 and is visually striking both inside and out. You can choose from a selection of yukata to wear as staff members carefully cover you in sand that has been naturally warmed by hot spring water. Please note that while the sand bathing itself is fully clothed, you’ll need to change and shower in a communal changing area and you should not wear any clothes under your yukata.
- See More
- Kannawa Mushiyu（Kannawa Steam Bath）
- In a traditional stone chamber at Kannawa Mushiyu, you can experience clothed steam bathing while lying on a bed of aromatic sekisho herbs as natural geothermal steam creates a deeply relaxing atmosphere. The facility provides rental Yukata, or feel free to bring your own light, comfortable clothing suitable for high humidity. Staff members will time your 8-minute session and offer a 2-minute extension when they check on you at the end. While you’ll be fully clothed during the session, please note that you’ll need to change and rinse yourself in a communal changing area before and after your steam bath.
- See More
- Swimsuit-Friendly Onsen
- For a more familiar bathing experience, several resort-style facilities in Oita offer hot spring pools where swimsuits are required. Suginoi Hotel’s Aqua Garden features a spacious rooftop area with multiple outdoor pools filled with natural hot spring water, offering spectacular views of the mountains and sea. The facility also includes a highly saline, indoor floating meditation bath where you can experience weightless relaxation. At Morinoyu Resort’s Garden Bath, you can enjoy six different types of outdoor baths surrounded by trees and gardens, creating a peaceful natural setting where couples, families, and friends can relax together. Both venues offer swimsuit rental services.
- See More
Tattoos and Onsen
You may have heard that many Japanese hot springs have a no-tattoo policy. This is because of the historical association between tattoos and organized crime in Japanese society. While this connection might seem less relevant today, it still influences many traditional establishments. However, visitors to Oita Prefecture will find plenty of welcoming options. Many onsen allow tattoos if they are covered up using special tape or bandages, or, even if they are not comfortable with tattoos in the main communal bath, they might have private baths that you can rent out (kashikiri or kazoku-buro) and where tattoos are of course fine. You can search for tattoo-friendly onsen options by visiting the link below.
- Beppu Jigoku Tour
- Beppu’s Seven “Hells” or “Jigoku” are a striking collection of natural hot spring sightseeing spots, each with its own distinct character. Five of them are clustered within walking distance of each other, while Chinoike Jigoku and Tatsumaki Jigoku are a short drive or bus ride away. You can purchase a two-day pass that lets you explore all seven sites at your own pace, including free use of the footbaths at four of the locations. There’s also a stamp rally that lets you document your journey through “hell,” collecting unique stamps at each stop.
- See More
- Jigokumushi（Steam Cooking）
- A unique way to harness the power of Oita’s hot springs is jigoku mushi or “hell steaming,” a traditional cooking method that dates back hundreds of years. Hell Steaming Workshop Kannawa is one of several places offering this as a hands-on experience. You can choose from various set courses or select individual ingredients. Then, with help from staff, you place your chosen ingredients in baskets and lower them into vents releasing natural geothermal steam at close to 100°C that cooks the food while sealing in the natural flavors.
- See More
- Hot Springs and Health
- Many Japanese strongly believe in the healing properties of onsen, and toji is a time-honored practice of staying at hot spring towns to improve health and wellbeing through regular bathing in mineral-rich waters. Throughout Oita, you can explore onsen with distinct mineral compositions, each traditionally associated with different therapeutic properties.
Final Thoughts
Onsen are deeply woven into the fabric of everyday Oita life. Nowhere is this more evident than in Kannawa, Beppu, where you can see wisps of steam rising up the hillside, smell the distinctive mineral-rich air, and hear the gentle burbling of hot spring waters around you. Beyond its rich onsen culture, Oita also offers delicious local fare such as chicken tempura or toriten, freshly caught sashimi, including ryukyu, a regional dish of sashimi flavored with soy sauce, sake, mirin, sesame, and ginger, as well as shiitake and a variety of other wonderful Oita produce.ｖ
